September Newsletter: An Ode to Verona
all of Juliet's secret places to eat, drink, dance, and forget about some boy named Romeo
Prologue: I am very behind on this newsletter, and I am dearly sorry. I thought moving would be easy while balancing work and school. In reality, it’s a sh*t show.
There is no world without Verona walls
But purgatory, torture, hell itself.
Hence banished is banished from the world,
And world's exile is death.
Romeo and Juliet - Act III, Sc. III
Initially, I wanted to call this newsletter ‘Verona, I love you but you're letting me down’. But, now that it is no longer home, it’s all too bittersweet.
I have a confession to make: I talked a lot of smack about this city. It was a real rapporto amore e odio / love-hate relationship.
Regardless, during my last days living in this city, I chose to love Verona. Because I do love Verona. I adore its corners, familiar faces, and fascinating little architectural details. I’d marvel at every Palladian or Venetian window I’d see, and cute little dog around the corner.
Naturally, when a new chapter begins, the unknowns cause you to cling to what you know. Those things I know - the things I’ve come to love about fair Verona, where I laid my own scene - I want to share with you…so that you can feel like Juliet if only she just got over her mommy issues and Romeo.
The Spritz
I have to mention this drink because it was born in the Veneto, and quite frankly you don’t find them anywhere as cheap as you do here.
In Verona, there’s a lot of drinking. I’m talking slinging spritz or shots of grappa at 10 a.m. level drinking. All *jokes* aside, aperitivo here is almost obligatory. It’s like happy hour - the thing everyone does immediately after work.
So, I bid goodbye to a 3 or 4-euro spritz. Full disclosure: I didn’t drink them all that often (more of a martini or gin tonic person). When I did, my order was a spritz Campari or Gajardo, because I am more of a bitter gal.
Where I like to go for spritz & drinks in Verona
Archivio: Let me keep it simple: Archivio is a staple. Don’t judge it for its size or non-existent seating. The place has fabulous drinks. Giacomo who helps run the bar is the sweetest. So, get a mezcal negroni or a spritz, then sip it outside in piedi.
You can also head to its sister spot Amaro - which I’ve mentioned in multiple previous newsletters - to sip an equally good spritz on their patio overlooking the gorgeous facade of Chiesa San Fermo.
Dal Zovo: Right on Corso Cavour is this lovely bistrot excellent for aperitivo. I love it because their side outdoor seating is a quick escape from the bustling street for a spritz with a view of Arco dei Gavi and the Adige River. Also, they have great taralli.
Alma: A newcomer to the Verona scene, this cozy modern spot gives Miami vibes with its chic and colorful decor, glass block bar, and sprawling outdoor seating.
BONUS BABY: Verona’s Best Dive!
Plus, where Juliet goes to boogie.
To be honest, Pedrotti boasts a ‘dive bar located around the corner from a liberal arts school’ kind of vibe. The bar is in Veronetta, Verona’s university district, after all. Either way, the moment I saw the vintage spirits bottles lining the walls and the giant poster of Steve Buscemi’s Trees Lounge, I knew I was home.
And, most importantly, the staff is so warm and groovy! When the weather is nice, this place is where to snag a gin & tonic, find a seat outside, and meet new people. After you’re adequately lubricated, head to Deposito down the street where local musicians and DJs often spin tunes in this speakeasy-style lounge.
The Horse
One of my favorite things to eat in Verona was cavallo or horse. I am not joking at all.
The Veronesi have been eating caval’ (as they call horse) since the 9th century when a huge war left a starving population and many injured or dead horses to eat. That’s the story in short, as I know you are probably still trying to stomach the fact that I openly - and joyfully - consume horse.
I firmly believe you need to respect food traditions where you are. And, our manipulated food system has tilted our view on meat, making us (especially Americans) only comfortable with the classic trifecta of beef, pork, and poultry (aka chicken and turkey).
The question is: What’s more unethical - eating a factory-farmed chicken or a horse who lived a great life?
I will leave you to ponder while I move on to places Juliet would most definitely take herself out for an independent girl meal in Verona:
Il Localino di Verona: My second home in Verona - this little restaurant is run by the beautiful couple Dario and Susi who rotate their menu every 10 days. They do everything to make you feel right at home.
Trattoria Molinara: The place to try all the caval - raw, stewed, or grilled. Plus, they give you complimentary mortadella, sliced thick, to start off your meaty meal.
Trattoria da Camillo: This newer spot is a gem. Camillo is the jolliest and the food quality is beyond high. Their chalkboard menu will have you salivating, even for horse.
Juliet’s Biggest Secret: Mexican Food
The level of dumbfounded I was to discover dope Mexican food in Verona cannot be expressed in enough ‘holy sh*ts’. Mezcalina in Veronetta is fantastic. Their tacos, especially their cochinita pibil, hit the spot. And, they got all the margaritas you need to mend a broken heart.
The Wine
Verona is smack in the middle of wine country. Its surrounding hills produce amazing wines, many famous and not-so-famous. Amarone della Valpolicella ring a bell? Now I have your attention.
If Juliet were a single lady living in Verona, she’d definitely crush a bottle of Durello - a delicious local sparkling wine - before heading out on the town. Here are a few places you can do just that.
Where I prefer to be wine-drunk in Verona
…Besides Bottega del Vino…
Tor Tor: Just around the corner from Verona’s famous arena is this wine bar with a wine list curated with heart by the owners. You can find really special bottles here.
EnoBocconi: When Juliet’s craving for champagne calls, this is where she goes. Plus, their homemade snacks and appetizers are the bomb (snails anyone?)
Osteria La Mandorla: The local spot is also steps from the Arena where you can get excellent-priced glasses of Durello before and after (or, on difficult days, for) dinner.
And now for the bittersweet Final Act…
Before I bid Verona goodbye and close out this September newsletter, I must tell you about the best bakery in Verona: Impasti 4.1. Their bread, cookies, and tarts are sinful enough to distract from the wound of ill-fated love. Also, Impasti 4.1 sources their grains with care. I love how creative they get with their flour blends.
Pro-tip: During the afternoons, they sometimes make sandwiches with their pizza bianca. Star-crossed lovers level to die for!