Autumn in Rome
Memories like embers glow
When I seem to hear, "Arrivederci, dear…
We are seeing an extra spooky October folks, and I am not just talking about the freaky weather patterns.
It’s Friday the 13th!
While most of us are thinking of slashers in hockey masks, Friday the 13th isn’t necessarily a day of bad omens for all. Apparently, in Napoli, it’s considered a lucky day!
There, the number 13 is welcomed with open arms, as it represents the 13 miracles of Saint Anthony (Sant’Antonio da Padova). Apparently, he was able to perform 13 miracles in one day. He also died on June 13th. So, it’s safe to say an elevator will never miss floor 13 on Neapolitan territory.
I am not going to spend this whole newsletter talking about superstitions (although I will one day because boy are they FUN!) I will stick with this monthly newsletter’s theme by diving into all the best things that October brings in Italy, even if it may still be 28 C/ 82 F…
CHESTNUTS ARE HERE!
Spoiler: They do a lot more than roast on an open fire.
You might have thought Nat King Cole and chestnuts were reserved only for Christmas time. Nope, chestnuts make their debut in October, alongside their forest loverboys porcini mushrooms.
Castagne - as chestnuts are called in Italian - are a central part of the diet for certain Italian communities, particularly around the Apennines (which is sort of like the spine of the Italian peninsula.)
A few fun facts/ little things to know about chestnuts:
Chestnuts are not nuts, they’re fruits! Don’t we love how language fools us? Chestnuts come from chestnut trees, which bear these little nuggets that are not full of fat like your walnut or almond. Rather, they’re a little sweet, full of good carbohydrates, and all the nutrients.
Another fun fact - chestnuts naturally have a spiny exterior that can cause sneaky, pain in the a** splinters if you’re not careful. I tripped on a hike and got about 15 little pins in my bum.
Also, I’ve seen seagulls (gabbiani) in Rome steal quite a few. That’s some money in the air right there.
Now, chestnuts aren’t just for roasting on the streets of Rome. These babies are very flexible. Thanks to the curiosity of Italians from places like Orsigna chestnuts have been turned into flour to make delicious things both sweet and savory.
Fresh pasta is made with chestnut flour. It’s earthy with a nutty sweetness that’s absolutely divine. I had some with chives and speck in Orsigna that blew my mind. Then, there’s the famous castagnaccio, or chestnut cake. The recipes vary where you are. But, it’s really the OG granola bar, a snack made to help people sustain long days working in the hills and mountains.
It’s also ‘shroom season
My love letter to porcini mushrooms from last week says it all. Read it and feel hungry (and probably book another trip to Italy if you’re not currently here, splendoring in all this Autumn goodness already).
P.S. I had porcini fritti (fried porcini mushrooms) from Trattoria Masuelli in Milano a couple of days ago. Little nuggets of absolute heaven!
Did someone say TRUFFLES?
I honestly find nothing more hilarious than how foolishly obsessed the world is with truffles. Listen, truffles are quite fascinating little treasures of the forest. But, if you don’t know the different types when they’re available, and - most importantly - how to prepare them, you’re probably going to get scammed.
Today, I will not bore you with all the truffle details (another newsletter will, though). This little bit is to share the two types of truffles that come into the season in October, and how to best enjoy them!
Now, in the Fall there are Autum black truffles which can be found in various parts of Italy. These really do best with lots of fatty things like butter, cheese, or meat. They need heat to bring out their flavors. Shaved raw and plain they often just taste like… dirt.
Then, there’s the fancy tartufi bianchi (white truffles). Let’s get something straight - white truffles aren’t only found in Piedmont. These rare tubers are found in Tuscany, Umbria, Molise, and other Italian regions. Unlike black truffles, these guys are best served raw and sliced very thin on top of simple dishes. The simplest presentation being Piemonte’s tajarin pasta with butter and shaved truffles.
Against popular belief, you can find black and white truffles from many different parts of Italy. It’s not just that Piedmont has white truffles and Tuscany has black truffles. These special little tubers come in different species and forms when there’s just the right environment to make them happy enough to grow.
PLEASE NOTE! There are counterfeit truffles, so it’s always best to ask the source. Actually, asking the source of anything is always a good idea. Even if it means pissing people off.
IT’S ZUCCA SZN
It’s pumpkin season people.
Tortelli di zucca are basically the PSLs* of Italy. Mildly joking there, but I really don’t think you’re ready for this…
These pumpkin-filled ravioli are most famous from Mantova, where they’re also filled with raisins, nutmeg, apple mostarda, and amaretti. Talk about a mouth full of FALL.
Tortelli di zucca are also very famously made in Emilia Romagna - especially Modena - where they are called tortelloni (big tortelli). Traditionally, they’re drizzled with aceto balsamico di Modena which is aged for at least 12 years. It transforms the dish into a sweet umami paradise. It’s one of those once-in-a-lifetime dishes you must try. I recommend going to Trattoria Aldina for the experience.
Still, you can find tortelli di zucca all over Italy made simply with pumpkin or squash inside (sorry the amaretti are a unique addition to Mantova). They’re so delicious that they only need to be tossed in butter. If you have sage? Even better.
*Note: a PSL is a Pumpkin Spice Latte - one of the most brilliantly marketed beverages in history. Starbucks created an epidemic of PSL addiction across America.
LANGUAGE BREAK! A ‘zucca’ can also refer to someone’s head, especially when you’re talking about someone being a little…stupid. You would say someone has a ‘zucca vuota’ if they’re not very smart or clever.
OLIO NUOVO IS HERE
Finally, October means one of my favorite times of the year: the olive harvest! Sadly, the crazy weather has wreaked havoc on olive trees in many parts of Italy. In other words, the harvest is not on the abundant side.
There is still olive oil, though! The reason this time is so special is because of one thing: olio nuovo. The ‘new oil’ (as it’s called) is one of the zestiest, healthiest, bitter (in a good way) things you could ever eat. Remember - olives are a fruit that produces an oil full of all those healthy polyphenols that people rave about (you know, the antioxidants that protect our organs and make us look pretty).
The only way to reap these benefits is to have cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil made from olives that were harvested and then immediately (max within a couple of hours of harvest) transformed into oil at the frantoio or the olive mill.
The olio nuovo is that oil that just comes out and is immediately bottled. Its color is insane. Sometimes it can be a full-on neon green that you can’t believe is real. But, then you remember that nature is a wild thing, baby.
The olive harvest has only just begun and can go into November in regions like Umbria and Tuscany. So, you’re not too late for olio nuovo - Italy’s true liquid gold.
…Walks beneath the pines that grace the golden sky
Stopping now and then to share a lover's sigh, you and I
-Tony Bennett, Autumn in Rome