2023 August Newsletter
a comedic tribute to Ferragosto and my North Jersey roots + MY DAD'S FOOD SECRETS!
My newsletters are typically filled with lots of pasta and silly facts about Italy. This time it’s much more… Jersey.
August, but different
Ferragosto is usually full of feasts, fireworks, and full lunch spreads of the good things (aka parmigiana or spaghetti alle vongole, at least for me).
This year, it was full of Italian-style hot dogs and sprinkle cookies.
For those who don’t get the gif, it’s from Real Housewives of New Jersey (my unapologetic guilty pleasure show) and the iconic scene where Teresa slams sprinkle cookies. Watch here.
What do Ferragosto, Fascism, Feminism, and Fellini have in common?
One place: Sabaudia.
It’s where I’d spend almost every Ferragosto as a kid. I was overjoyed when Dan Petroski of Massican asked me to write a piece, reflecting on Ferragosto, its history, and my childhood Augusts in Italy. It’s really special to me. It also explains precisely why Italians disappear in a quick cloud of smoke when August arrives.
You can find the piece on their website or - better yet - Massican’s A Mediterranean Dinner Party Newsletter which is just fabulous.
A Very New Jersey Ferragosto
Many probably wonder why I quote the Sopranos often. It’s mainly because my father is from Newark, New Jersey. He grew up on the streets made famous in the 21st century by Tony Soprano. But, they were famous before then - by the likes of Frank Sinatra, Joe DiMaggio, and Frankie Valli.
Now, Ferragosto isn’t really celebrated in Jersey. Italian Americans know what it is. However, the whole ‘disappearing in August’ and fireworks on the 15th do not happen here. We Americans sadly do not have the cultural norm of getting a month off…ever.
The truth is - I didn’t really spend Ferragosto with my Dad. He would often stay back in NJ when we would go to Italy. One reason was that he had to work. Yet, it was more that - as a child of immigrants - he honestly didn’t see the purpose in going back frequently. It was something I really didn’t understand then. I do now, knowing more about my Dad’s upbringing and how my grandparents enforced how valuable living in American
(…And here I am the grandchild living in Italy.)
That said, it was super exciting to have a spontaneous afternoon with my Dad, sightseeing and eating all the Newark staples.
The OG Food of Newark and North NJ: Hot Dogs
It’s not sfogliatell’ or gabagool, sorry.
One thing that defined my Italian family is my grandfather’s hot dog truck. When I was little, my Dad would always tell me stories about when he would work the truck as a teenager, helping his father in the summer. He learned how to make my grandfather’s hot dog onions, which are good enough to eat on a roll alone.
50 years later, hot dogs are still the Newark thing. And, not just any old hot dog. Newark is where Jimmy Buff invented the Italian-style hot dog, which actually might be one of the best things ever. Fried potatoes, sweet peppers, and onions on a (also fried) hot dog? Sign me up.
Unfortunately, my father is a Celiac (diagnosed only 6 years ago). So, his hot dog-eating days are kinda over. Because let’s be real - without the bun - it’s just a weird-looking weiner or wurst.
Still, he was the best tour guide. After showing me every house he and his family grew up in, we made our first stop - paying homage to my grandfather with a simple hot dog with onions from Tony’s.
This truck has been around since 1968, serving old-school simple boiled hot dogs. The guys behind us were talking about eating 6 to 7 each - a great sign. An even better sign was that Newark-native Queen Latifa goes there. Who doesn’t love Queen Latifa?!
Next, we headed to Dickie Dee’s on Bloomfield Avenue. There they make an Italian-style hot dog that looks much more like a football. And, if you get the double, it is the size of one too.
I wish with all my might that I could virtually send you the experience I had (perhaps I should consider supporting the freaky Metaverse…)
First, there’s the bread. It’s a perfect pizza pocket that can support all the fried goodness (hot dog, potatoes, onions, and sweet peppers.) Then there’s the hot dog to potato ratio - which is about a pound of fried potatoes to one slim fried hot dog, which rests in a little bath of mustard at the bottom. And, it’s that spicy brown mustard that makes the already delicious fried hot dog and potatoes taste even better.
Some opt for ketchup on top. I didn’t because it’s too sweet for me (the onions and peppers are enough) and I am quite frankly a mustard freak.
We didn’t get to Jimmy Buff’s (in Irvington, just outside of Newark) which is the genius behind this fried potato on hot dogs thing. I’ll be back for that so stay tuned.
Dessert at Calandra’s (because you can’t visit Newark without sfogliatell’ or semolina bread)
Right across the way from Dickie Dee’s is the original Calandra’s. Today, this bakery is quite the empire in NJ. You will find the original shop from 1962 in Newark.
Calandra’s is your classic Italian American bakery - it’s both a pasticceria and panificio (a pastry shop and a bread bakery). You can get traditional pastries like sfogliatella and millefoglie, along with all the cookies of your dreams. The family favorite of course is pinoli nut cookies. You can also pick up fresh bread from semolina to whole wheat.
My Dad couldn’t stop reminiscing. He told me how he’d pick up a hot semolina bastone or baguette here after class and eat them with olive oil and garlic.
Update: Before I said this is where Sinatra would get his bread. But, I got it wrong! The story was even more special - he would get it from Giordano’s, a tiny bakery around the corner from my Dad’s childhood home. My Dad’s godfather would order Giordano’s bread for Sinatra who loved the bread so much he wanted it shipped to his other home in California.
If you’re curious to learn more, here’s an interesting article clipping from 1987 on Giordano’s in TIME magazine.
Grand Finale: Holsten’s
Yes, the historic spot where they filmed the last scene of the Sopranos.
Plot twist - Holsten’s isn’t in Newark - it’s in Bloomfield, just north of the city. My Dad passed this joint on the bus all the time as a kid but rarely came here. He still respects Holsten’s and shared a milkshake with me to celebrate our Newark afternoon adventure.
P.S. The truth is - the greatest people are from Jersey
Throughout this post, you may have noticed name-dropping of some pretty awesome people. Queen Latifa, Frank Sinatra, my Dad…
Because the fact of the matter is - despite everyone trying to hate on New Jersey - a lot of your favorite people are from here (especially North Jersey.) I don’t know what’s in the water. I’m not going to question it, though.
To be even more annoying, below I listed more people who grew up in good ole NJ. You’ll thank me later when you have the best trivia on your next date.
Jack Nicholson, Danny Devito, SZA, James Gandolfini, Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Tom Cruise, Whitney Houston, Shaquille O’Neal, Ray Liotta, Gloria Gaynor, Paul Simon, Allen Ginsberg, Sarah Vaughn…and the list goes on.
What’s to Come for Slutti Spaghetti
Moving into my new apartment in Italy in a couple of weeks, I will begin a new chapter filled with slutti food and bev madness. There will be much more in Love Letters and Sluttiest Foods, plus some seriously exciting interviews. I am trying so hard not to spoil anything!
There will also be merch news coming soon so please keep your eyes out for a special update in your inboxes as subscribers will be the first to receive updates.
As always, this is a platform to share experiences! So please if you would like to chat or contribute, you are more than welcome to reach out. I am always open to interview ideas and contributor articles.
I think of Slutti Spaghetti like a big nonna’s table. And, one person at the table is quite the empty, sad table am I right?
Can’t wait to share more food and drink love this Fall.
Xx,
Victoria